Finding the Muse in Athens, Greece | Europe Travel Diaries
After a year of being trapped in New Zealand due to COVID, I was ready to escape.
I felt too much like a Kiwi.
A small flightless bird who could not leave the island.
During my time in New Zealand, I had been struggling to write my first novel.
Inspiration was fleeting.
Motivation was seriously lacking.
I felt invisible to the muses.
I needed to escape. To fly away to a faraway land and connect to the creativity inside of me.
Enter Greece - the land of muses and thousands of years of civilization. Something was calling me to her.
On September 2022, I packed my backpack and bought a one-way ticket to Athens.
Return date: Unknown.
This is the story of what followed.
All of my possessions in one pic
Finding the Muse in Athens: A Journey to Creativity
Finally, I’m back on the road again.
Fuck it feels good.
You know that feeling? The one that sits in the pit of your stomach at the airport at 5am and you are about to fly out on your dream holiday?
That’s what I felt.
The travel butterflies. The fizz in my belly. The adventure into the unknown. The overdosing on new sights and scenes. The urge to create.
It was hard to contain. I knew my girlfriend could feel it too. The excitement was bubbling out of her.
Athens, Greece
Arriving in Athens
Our plane left Auckland, New Zealand on September 7th, 2022.
It crossed the Pacific Ocean, Southern Asia, the Middle East, and North Africa.
After 30 hours of flying time, we witnessed a gorgeous sunrise out the airplane windows as we crossed the Aegean Sea.
We were close.
Our plane landed and I stood in line for border control, all the necessary documentation in my nervously excited hands. Health insurance, COVID passes, proof of accommodation, and a screenshot of my bank balance to show I had enough money to travel here.
I anxiously waited for my interrogation as to why I was traveling here.
I stepped up to the counter, and the customs officer didn’t even bat an eye at me. He ignored the travel documents, and barely said a word. He stamped my passport, welcomed me to Greece, and waved me through.
Don’t stress your visa - it appears that Greece is only concerned about getting tourists into their land to spend money.
At the airport, we grabbed an espresso, and a bite to eat, then ventured out into the sweltering September heat and caught a bus into the city of Athens.
Balconies and Endless Blue Skies
First Impressions of Athens
I sat on the bus and stared out the windows as we rode into town.
I was amazed by the amount of greenery and grunginess in the city.
Graffiti seems to cover every inch of the buildings.
The run-down, rugged look of the city has an undeniable charm to it.
Incredible Graffiti in Athens
As we neared the city, I imagined the hundreds of generations of warriors, pilgrims, and poets who walked this land. I pictured them marching to battle, fighting for democracy, or pondering the enemy of us all - The ego.
Before we arrived at our stop, I already felt freer.
My mind was limbering up.
I felt like I wanted to connect with others and learn more about their way of living. I craved to hear about their perspective on life, and the beautiful dance and struggle of existence that they face daily.
I was excited to be here, right here, in this moment.
As the bus neared its stop, I was reminded of the following quote.
“It is good to come to a country you know practically nothing about. Your thoughts grow still, useless… In a country you know nothing about, there is no reference point. You struggle to assiciate colors, smells, dim memories. You live a little like a child, or an animal.”
The Potential of a New Destination
The easiest way to escape the narrowing perspective of the mind is to travel. To open up new possibilities.
I love how the social barriers of something you hold so dearly are broken the moment you land in a new country.
For me - I wanted to escape the tall poppy syndrome of New Zealand. The reserved and staunch culture did not feel like a place I could tap into my creativity. I also had to escape the critical bastard that sits in my mind, the one who is afraid of being seen as a writer.
The moment I arrived in Athens, I felt unjudged, or at least no baggage rode on my personality. Despite looking like a pack mule, lugging around two heavy backpacks, I was free of baggage.
I knew then that I had the power to write a new life. And that was exactly what I would do during this new chapter.
The Muse has Started to Whisper
“Happiness resides not in possessions and not in gold. The feeling of happiness dwells in the soul.”
Democritus, 400 BC.
As I write this travelogue, I sip Greek coffee on the balcony at my Airbnb. It’s just before 7 am. The sounds of the city grow louder as the locals begin to go about their day. The soft dusk light is being chased away by the rising September sun.
I crack open a fresh travel journal and begin the next chapter of my life.
I can feel her. She tingles down my spine and places power and confidence in my chest.
I want to tell stories, I believe that is a big part of my life. Even if I have avoided it for a long time.
I can hear the stories written in the walls of this city.
Stories that have been written for centuries.
They are whispered down the little streets and inside the bustling squares. They’re shouted from the Acropolis and the Agora.
I can feel something inside of me asking me to do more, create more, and take action toward my deepest calling.
I am ready for more life experience, more creativity, and more deep work.
I am seriously living my dreams right now.
This is what I wanted.
For so long, I had been searching for a life of:
Love
Creativity
Connection
Adventure
Productivity
Every day I am here, I will get out of bed and live harder than I have before.
I will find the life of adventure I seek while putting out creative and intellectual works that burn inside my soul.
I have five more weeks in the birthplace of human civilization, society, philosophy, and democracy as we know it.
Statues of the Erechtheion
What type of drive, art, passion, and discipline, and zest for life will flow in and out of me in this land?
The land where the muse wanders, the daughters of Zeus blessing those who listen with their words and works of wisdom.
If you travel to Athens, I want to remind you: Listen to the muse while you are here, sit down and write, let her flow through you. Do not put so much on your plate that you feel rushed, allow time for creativity.
Aphrodite - the Goddess of Love
“Love is the most powerful motivator in the world. It spurs mortals to greatness. Their noblest and bravest acts are done for love.”
Aprhodite
The City of Athens has also reminded me to go towards love.
Everyone is worthy of self-love and the love of others.
Every day you are on this earth, you are able to indulge in love.
I think Love is a verb. It must be demonstrated; it must be acted out and acted upon. This beautiful verb describes so much in life. Creativity, Happiness, Potential, God.
Love is an act of unselfishness.
At every moment the world could use a little more love.
The goddess Aphrodite is here in Athens, I can sense her.
There is a love for life, for the sun, for other humans, despite the struggle of existence.
The citizens of Athens seem to embody that. They show outward displays of affection, of respect, they hug each other, and hold the elderly’s hands.
The Inspiration of Athens
It is so inspiring to be in a place where so much has happened.
Countless soldiers, warriors, philosophers, artists, and lovers have walked these streets over the last three thousand years.
Some of the most influential people to ever grace this earth have walked, loved, and lived here.
Together, they built the city from the ground up.
Tap into that energy.
When you go to Athens, I challenge you to walk through the city with a romantic outlook. As if you are wearing sunglasses that give life a rose-colored tint.
Observe people as they do their daily dance of existence.
Dance to the sounds of the city.
Taste the coffee and the wine.
Breathe in the Athens air.
Admire the grace and the beauty of the city.
Early Highlights of Athens
Freddo Espresso’s and Normal Espressos.
The Greeks know how to make a damn good coffee and a strong one at that. Coffee Island is a fantastic chain to get your fix. If it’s too hot, opt for the Freddo - an iced espresso.
Gyros.
If you aren’t eating 3 gyros a day, you need to try harder. A good Gyros should set you back no more than €2 to €3.
One of my favorite Gyros in Athens - Ο Γύρος του ΝΙΚ Restaurant
The September Weather.
The endless blue skies. The 6 am Sunrises. The sweltering heat. God how I craved this during the New Zealand winter. Every day seems to float above 30 degrees celsius - just perfect.
The Charismatic locals.
Everyone here is a natural salesman. They all claim to be the best or the greatest. The best tour guide, the greatest Gyros chef. Whether that’s true, who knows? But you can’t deny the charisma and charm of these people. There is a natural kindness to the locals of Athens, yes they will try and sell to you, but they are also an extremely hospitable people.
The Ancient History - Acropolis and Agora.
I’ve never been to a city that truly feels like you are being transported back in time. You can imagine what life was like 2000+ years ago. It makes New Zealand’s history look like an infant.
Our adventure took us through Athens’ ancient landmarks like the Acropolis, the Ancient Agora, and the Acropolis Museum which is filled with millennia-old art.
The standard tourist pic in Athina - Acropolis
Sunset on the Areopagus Hill.
Walk up from Monastiraki Square, grab a Gyros, and a bottle of wine and watch the sunset from Areopagus Hill. A crowd of tourists and locals make this journey every night and sit together as the sun dips over the Mediterranean.
Hike the Pnyx Hill.
Acording to history, this was where democracy first arose. Whenever a vote needed to be cast, all the Free men of Athens would climb this hill. They would debate on important matters, then cast their votes on broken tiles. They would vote on who would be exiled and who would be the next leader and new laws to pass. This was the only place in the world like it at the time. And is one of the reasons that the Western world is so free today.
Explore Monastiraki and Plaka Districts at Night.
The bustling heart of the city comes to life at night. You might think this place is busy during the day, but everyone in the city comes to play in Monastiraki or Plaka when darkness sets.
You will have to dodge the young girls handing out roses, and the hustlers trying to sell you flying lights and other gadgets. But this is the place to be at night.
There are countless bars and restaurants where you can enjoy a cheap drink, live music, and quality food. Just go a few streets back from the main square if you want to save a few euros.
An Alice in Wonderland inspired restaurant - ‘Little Kook’ in Plaka, Athens
Produce Shopping at The Farmers Markets.
I would argue that Athens has some of the best fresh produce in the world. You can find fresh produce everywhere, but the best place we found was Kallidromiou Street.
Every Saturday there is an enormous fruit and vegetable market that stretches for at least a kilometer down the street.
The passionate vendors come from farms outside the city and sell their incredible produce. Here you will find giant tomatoes, juicy olives, nectarines the size of a baby’s head, creamy avocadoes, and fresh meat. It’s all dirt cheap too.
Dance to the Music of Life
In the heart of Monasitaki, an incredible performance by a group of African drummers rang through the air. I felt the romance inside me calling out, begging me to get out there and dance.
So I did.
I let my body move and wiggle to the beat of the bongos. With every step, I shook my imposing beliefs free. I am not one to dance and am rather uncoordinated on the dance floor. But the drums put this story on mute.
It was just a made-up story in my head. Despite being told I couldn't dance and feeling laughed at when I was younger, it didn't matter anymore. I danced in public simply because the music filled me with joy, not caring about others' opinions for once.
It had to be channeled out of my body and I didn't care what anyone thought of me for a moment.
I didn't care about the beliefs or judgments of others, the little voices that had told me not to dance, or to not be romantic, or to not love, or to not smile too much. They were all quiet.
Those voices belonged to other people who cast judgments over others before ever turning their eyes on themselves. They realize not that they judge themselves through the ridicule of others.
Forgive them for this, for they know no better.
Athens is Inspiring a Lifestyle Shift
I desire a lifestyle that provides time, location, and financial freedom, but I recognize that discipline is essential for achieving it.
The disciplined warriors from ancient Greece inspire me to commit to waking up early each day while focusing on completing my novel.
In total, I plan to spend five weeks in Greece and two weeks in Athens.
As I immerse myself in this historic land where muses have inspired countless individuals with their wisdom, I hope to harness my own drive and passion.
My plan is simple: rise early, watch the neighborhood come alive as I enjoy coffee and CBD; write until 9am; then explore the city—taste new foods and engage with locals—to absorb its vibrant life further.
As part of this journey towards self-improvement and openness, embracing the beauty found within life's cosmic chaos is vital. Feeling refreshed in Athens has given me a newfound energy for living fully every day.
By challenging myself daily—and learning new words like Efcharisto (thankyou)—I aim to continue growing as a storyteller. One who appreciates centuries-old tales etched into these historic streets beneath landmarks like the Acropolis or Agora.
My top suggestions for Athens
If you're traveling to Athens, I highly recommend doing the tourist thing at the Acropolis, the Acropolis Museum, The Ancient Agora, and the countless other historic sites.
I also suggest just taking time to explore the infinite maze of side streets and chat with the owners of the small shops, cafes, and diners.
Monastiraki is another big tourist area, but it feels like the beating heart of the city. Its perched at the foothills of the Acropolis, and a central place to explore the city from.
If you move out into Patissia, there are some beautiful parks and farmer’s markets that you can explore.
It can be hard to escape the hustle and bustle of this dense city, but two amazing parks are:
Pedion tou Areos - Massive statues, and open art museums.
Athens National Garden - Lush scenery, turtles, botanical museums, and waterfalls.
Where to Stay in Athens
Agios Nikolaos was probably my favorite area to find accommodation. It is slightly more modern than the rest of the city that we explored. It also felt much safer at night. We got an amazing deal on an Airbnb for a week here.
We also stayed in a place called Kato Patisia, which is a little bit more run down, but you can get cheap accommodation.
Almost everywhere in the City is accessible by Metro, thanks to the ‘04 Olympics. The Metro is, I found very safe. The only thing that you have to watch about is pickpockets.
DO NOT STAY IN OMONIA. Whatever you do, avoid staying in Omonia. I cannot stress this enough. Its the cheapest area of the city, and only one stop from Monastiraki, but do not fall for this trap. There is a prevalent drug problem involving Sisa – a dangerous concoction causing severe physical harm to users who may become aggressive or unpredictable. More on that soon…
What to Avoid in Athens
Despite the beauty of the city, Athens is a place that is struggling. The economic downfall in 2008 is still felt there. People are desperate. It is one of the poorest nations in the EU and that means there are things to be wary of, including:
The Rose Girls.
In the heart of Monastiraki, a young girl, no older than 10 carried a bouquet of roses.
She placed one in my hand and then made me put it in my girlfriend’s hair. She convinced us to kiss, and constantly repeated, “Beautiful couple, beautiful couple.”
We thanked her and turned to leave.
She grabbed my arm, pouted, and put out an open palm, “Money”.
We tried to hand back the rose.
She stomped her foot. “MONEY! 5 EURO!”
We gave her back the rose and tried to leave.
“MONEY! MY PAPA DIED.” She said with puppy dog eyes.
We apologized and left.
She wouldn’t take no for an answer. Eventually, we escaped her tiny grasp. And then we discovered an old woman handing out bunches of roses to her harem of young girls who had been trained to hassle tourists. They would get rid of all their roses, then run back to her with the money.
Do not get sucked into this scheme. It is all across Greece, and Europe in fact.
Omonia - The Ravaged Asshole of Athens
If you want to learn more about one of the worst drugs on the planet, watch a documentary by Vice called Sisa - Cocaine of the Poor.
It depicts how after the economic downfall of Greece, the drug dealers started dosing up addicts with a drug called Sisa - which is basically meth, bath salts, shampoo, battery acid, and any other harmful chemical they can get their hands on.
Cocaine, Heroin, and Meth are too expensive for the people living on the streets in Athens, but a hit of Sisa only costs 1 - 2 euros, so it runs rampant.
This lethal concoction can force the user to rape and murder without even knowing it. It is worse than crack, worse than meth, worse than bath salts.
After doing it for too long, scabs and wounds litter the body of the user, never to heal. Their organs rot, and the body starts to eat itself from the inside out.
People lie on the streets screaming, injecting their toenails with rusty needles, or holding blackened pipes and yelling at the pipe when it's finished.
They run down the streets screaming at ghosts, flailing their shoulders, and kicking cars.
The only time they are stopped is when cops dressed in full body armor, holding riot shields and automatic weapons get out of their bus to stop them.
We browsed booking.com for cheap accommodation and found that you could score a place in Omonia for less than €20 per night. What could go wrong? We thought.
Well, everything. We got to the apartment at 11 o'clock at night and could not find the address… We roamed the streets in a panic, in desperate search of our accommodation. All the while, we were dodging people who were so strung out on this chemical they were living in an entirely different reality. They screamed at ghosts around them, lay comatose on the street, or used rusty needles to get their next high.
This is a warning to you all, if you travel to Greece, do not travel to Omonia. There should be a danger tape around the entire area.
You do not want to stay there, no matter how cheap you can find accommodation.
The Beggars, Pickpocketers, and Homeless Children
It’s heartbreaking to see children on the street. Especially when they wear tatty clothes, and look malnourished and petrified.
But, there is free education for children in Greece, by giving them money, you give their parents more incentive to keep them on the street.
It’s not easy to ignore, and if you have food to give them, do it.
But be wary of scammers.
Also, keep your hands in your pockets on the Metro, and make sure you wear your bag on your front. There are very crafty pickpocketers who work in gangs to prey on travelers. We did not have any serious issues but heard stories of other travelers being robbed. Just keep your wits about you.
A love letter to Athens
Athens made me hard.
As hard as all the random wooden cocks you see around the city. The excitement and buzz of this place is electrifying and turned me on as a creator.
14 days in Athens taught me so much and it is one of my favorite cities in the world.
During our two-week stay, we explored various parts of Athens from Agios Nikolaos to the Port of Piraeus, Patissia to Plaka, the historical sites like the Acropolis to modern areas like Syntagma. But still so much remains undiscovered.
My biggest advice?
Just go and explore. Lose yourself in the city. Taste new foods. See entirely new scenes. Meet more characters and continue connecting to life.
Try to imagine life as someone living in ancient Greece. I read the books ‘Gates of Athens’ and ‘Protector’, by Conn Iggluden during my time here. These novels are two of my favorite Historical Fiction books, and Iggulden has a serious knack for transporting the reader back two and a half thousands years to when Athens was flourishing.
During this trip, I made significant progress on my novel while being inspired by Greek mythology. I have deepened my understanding of history and enhanced my creative passion.
I have heard the muse whispering to me the entire time I have been here, and I am so grateful for that.
I have written so much of my novel in these two weeks. This work of art is something that has stayed tucked away in my desk for years. I slaved away at it and never truly felt connected to the creativity, especially not without weed, but here the artistic creativity has come to me.
Zeus's daughters whisper here. They whisper in my ear for me and urge me to get up every morning before the sun rises and write.
I have also learned so much about myself, about my perspective, about my creative passion. This experience taught me to be more observant and open-minded in order to connect with life.
Now I must remember to not walk blindly through life while I still have eyes to see. I must listen to the sounds, and the voices and observe and listen unjudging, this is how I can connect to life.
What Two Weeks in Athens Has Taught Me
Athens is a place where I found concentrated focus.
A place to pour my intellectual capabilities into the world and add value.
I can do this with presence, just as I can now move through the world with presence.
I want to be a little more forgiving of myself. I am on my path. Remember that.
Consistent action will bring greatness. I am ready and willing to work.
I truly believe that the monster of creativity and hustle is ready to pour out into the world, but it will only happen if I take a seat and listen to the muse.
She is here. She whispers through the streets of Athens. Every old monument and graffiti-covered alleyway indicates that the muse is here.
All I need to do is sit down, let the pen write, let my fingers type and work with purpose.
Efcharistó (Ευχαριστώ) Athens.
I will always be grateful for these amazing lessons.
What’s Next?
Our time in Athens is almost complete. Today, we ship out to Crete. Write now, I’m sitting at the Port of Piraeus sipping a macchiato.
The world around me is humming, cranking.
The moment that the morning sun turns the white buildings pink and the rocky dry hills around the city blaze orange, the world comes alive.
This city has stood for thousands and thousands of years and you can somehow feel it in the people, in the buildings, the struggle, the human struggle for knowledge, for fame, for awareness, and for power.
It has played out on these streets for at least three millennia and it's so interesting to sit here and observe.
Hundreds of people walk past me as I do my pages. I would have been too embarrassed to do this in New Zealand or even the US, to be seen writing, but right now I'm honing my craft and working to be a more present writer every day.
I’m working to get better at writing or more comfortable diving into the creative.
Excited for Crete, Santorini, and Ios. The Magical Greek Islands.
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